How to Evaluate a Rolex Diamond Bezel

Determining if a diamond bezel on a Rolex is original is key if you are laying out a significant amount of money. It's common to hear of pawnbrokers or jewelers purchasing a Rolex with the assumption that a diamond bezel was the original product, only to find later that it was switched out with an aftermarket product. This also applies to retail shoppers purchasing from shady dealers.

Many pawnbrokers may cut there risk and offer "break-out" value for the diamond bezel. This is a safe process but you are almost guaranteed to lose a significant number of Rolex buying opportunities. And, as you all know, buying & selling pre-owned Rolex is a very profitable venture, increasing revenues significantly.

Here are some important tips for verifying if a bezel is genuine Rolex vs being aftermarket:

Fig.1

Figure 1. With a 10x loupe, verify that there are 4 bead sets per diamond. These bead sets should be uniform and perfect with no tool marks on the inside rim of the bezel blank. Also loupe the diamonds for flaws as Rolex only uses VVS1 grade, colorless diamonds.

Fig. 2

Figure 2. Review the side profile of the bezel i.e. thickness. In this illustration, we laid a non-genuine bezel (top) over an original Rolex bezel (bottom - installed on the watch). Notice that the aftermarket bezel is significantly higher or thicker in comparison to the original. Any thickness or overhang over the side of the case and winding crown is a simple "alert" that the bezel is aftermarket.

Fig. 3

Figure 3. If you have the capability, have the bezel removed and verify the presence of the Rolex coronet (crown engraving) on the bottom of the bezel. This coronet must be present for you to capture the genuine value out of the diamond bezel.

Fig. 4

Figure 4. Original Rolex diamond bezels will have smoothly finished radial lines on the bottom of the diamond bezel (underside). These radial lines are the result of the milling process. If the bottom of the bezel is flawed with finish imperfections, chances are it's an aftermarket.


Fig. 5
Figure 5. Notice the lack of radial lines and imperfect drill holes on the bottom of this non-genuine diamond bezel. Drill holes for the diamond settings if present, should be perfect and not off-center or oblong as pictured above.

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These are a few quick tips for verifying the presence of a diamond bezel on a Rolex watch at the point of purchase. Rolex retail prices for diamond bezels are approx. $4,000 per carat. Ladies and Gents bezels will retail at approx. $6,000- $13,500 depending on the style. These values are why you must evaluate all Rolex accessories or you could take a significant loss.

Just FYI, in terms of valuations (and I am talking to the retail jewelers and pawnbrokers), value original bezels at approx. 25% of the retail (assuming good condition and it's a popular model). In doing so, you will be liquid if you need to flip to the trade for a profit quick, as well as being in a good position for a great retail profit. Make Money!

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